Uthralikavu has different vibrant colours. Sometimes it’s dark green, just before the paddy fields start blooming. The youth time of rice saplings later turn into a yellowish shade when they are fully covered with rice seeds. Slowly it changes to a yellow carpet and turns golden when the young seedlings ripen. During this season, at the time of sunset, Uthralikavu Sree Bhagavathy temple and its premises shine like melted gold. When nature casts its magical spell, a chilled wind slowly blows from the distant Akamala hills and Machad hills. Even during noon, this wind never takes rest. Uthralikavu Pooram is an enhancement of all the vibrant and unexplored shades of the temple and its premises.
Belonging to Thrissur district – the land of Poorams, Uthralikavu Pooram is listed among the elite temple festivals of Kerala.
Uthralikavu – A sacred grove guarded by nature
This temple is a sacred grove, called ‘Kavu’ in Malayalam. Hills appear like umbrellas protecting the sacred grove, and nature itself guards it. Machad Hill is situated in the east, and Akamala Hill in the west. A long railway line runs in a north–south direction. On either side of the railway line lie the vast paddy fields. Uthralikavu Shri Rudhiramahakalikavu temple is situated in the Valley of Machad Hill, surrounded by paddy fields. While you travel by train between Shornur and Vadakkanchery, you can see Uthralikavu, where history and folklore reside together.
The stories behind Uthralikavu Pooram
The story connecting landlord Kelathachan and Mookambika
Decades back, there was a landlord called Kelathachan who was a great devotee of Mookambika. His provinces came under the old Cochin Kingdom. In those days, he used to visit Mookambika, and it took him 2 months to complete the visit. When he started ageing, it became difficult for him to travel such a long distance to reach the temple. During one such visit, he expressed his worries to the goddess, and the Goddess came along with him, mounted on his umbrella. He put his umbrella in Mullaykkal, a place near the landlord’s ancestral home. It was the first time he placed his umbrella somewhere after returning from Mookambika. He was inspecting his fields when he did this, but was not able to lift the umbrella later.
Kelathachan’s cook’s name was Palliyath Nair. Sometimes the goddess used to reside in him and he would turn into Komaram/Velichapad, where he performed with his spatula, making it his sword. One day the landlord beat him with a broom. But his hands got burned and he became still. So Kelathachan sought the help of an astrologer and performed a prashnam. The astrologer found the presence of the goddess Mookambika there and told the landlord.
Later the divine presence of the goddess was found in the valley of Akamala Hills, inside the paddy fields, beneath an Indian Tulip tree (called Poova maram in Malayalam). While a woman named Uthrali was cutting grass in the fields, her sickle incidentally rubbed a rock and it started bleeding. Thus the goddess showed her presence through blood. This site is now called Mullakal Sreemoolasthanam, the abode of the goddess.
Now also, during the Para Purappad ceremony, the first para (a kind of offerings given to the goddess in a traditional measuring can; you can read more about Para here) is from the ancestral home of Kelathachan. Uthralikavu Pooram, the second biggest Pooram (temple festival) after Thrissur Pooram is also known for its importance given to Harijan Vela (A temple custom performed by Harijans). Traditional art forms namely Aandi, Poothan, Thira, Mookkam Chathan and Nayaadi are performed as a part of annual temple celebrations, in front of the goddess.
The presiding deity is Rudhira Mahakali. For the blessings given by the Goddess, the temple festival is a form of expressing gratitude by the locals. The latest member of Kelathachan’s family is Kelath Parvathi Valiamma.
Poova Maram seen now, was planted by Chinnan Menon of Kumaranallur desam
The installed deity is in the form of Vaalkannadi, a type of traditional Kerala mirror with a handle. It’s made of stone. During the Kerala floods of 1924, the Indian Tulip tree (Poova maram) under which the presence of the goddess was spotted, was uprooted. It was located close to Sree Kovil, the place where the deity was installed. The surprising fact is, it didn’t damage the temple or deity.
Some years later, a tree of the same species was planted by Chinnan Menon, belonging to Ayyath Kizhekkekara family of Kumaranallur desam (village), which is there now. As of now, it is 100 years old. Chinnan Menon, belonging to a rich family, was a great devotee of the goddess, who even left family to serve her.
Thidamb (Idol) used by Kumaranallur desam for annual temple procession is still kept in the same family ancestral house. There is a perpetual lamp (kedaavilakk) placed inside the worship room of the home, and the family members believe it to be their fortune to get such a great opportunity to keep Thidamb of the Goddess. Satish Kumar, the son of Ammootty Amma, the senior-most member of the family, currently serves as the first president of the coordination committee representing 3 deshams (villages).
The position of ‘Komaram’ is still held by the cook’s family
The position of ‘Komaram’ in the temple festivals was given to the family of Palliyath Nair, the cook by Kelathachan. Many families have passed on. Yet even now this right is reserved to same family. Palliyath Madhavan Nair is currently holding the position of Komaram for the temple festival. Still now there are bundles of old palm leaves scripts kept in the storage space of the upper floor of the family. Newer generations haven’t referred to any of these old palm-leaf scripts, which contain mantras, rituals, medical treatments, sorcery, black magic etc. All these handwritten works (manual scripts) have been tied together and kept safe in the upper storage of the ancestral home.
In the pooja rituals of Uthralikavu, Komaram holds a special place. It starts with the Nirapara offerings given by devotees at homes, and includes many more rituals like Kalasa Nivedyam of Kunjootty Moothar. Kunjootty Moothar, who lived in the locality a few generations back, is believed to be a representative of God and was visible to everyone. Through Bhagavathi Seva, he showed many miracles, tricks and magic.
After some time he took full control over Bhagavathi, and later he disappeared as a mystery, as narrated by the locals. Yet near to the temple, daivathara (a special space for worship) has been built for him. Before the temple festival begins, as a custom, locals offer Nedyam to please him at daivathara, and this ritual is performed by Komaram.
Komaram lives alone in a home. He grows his hair and lives as a worshipper of the goddess, spending time in meditation and prayer. This home is near Palliyath Tharavadu (ancestral home). There is a daivathara in the home premises, where Komaram worships. Every evening, a lamp is lit on the terrace (where the old scripts are kept) of the home, and that lamp is used to light daivathara below. For the last four decades, Komaram Madhavan Nair has been doing all these rituals.
A strong belief exists – the goddess will remove all obstacles
Though worship in Mookambika Temple is done by Adiga priests, in Uthralikavu it’s done by brahmins belonging to another village. Now the main priest of the temple is Gopalakrishna Iyer from Kasaragod. Earlier his father Ramayyar served as the main priest. When Ramayyar turned old, his son took over the duty. This Rudra Maha Kali Kavu’s divinity and power excel among all Rudra Mahakali temples of Kerala.
Pantheerunaazhi Payasam is the main offering of the temple. Muttarukkal is another important offering. It is done by devotees to remove obstacles. ‘Mutt’ means ‘obstacles’ and ‘Arukkal’ means ‘to get rid of’. The devotee imagines that different obstacles like Dehamutt (for body), Vidyamutt (for education) and Karmamutt (for Karma) are invoked into a coconut, and then it is broken in Guruthi Thara (a stone place built for breaking coconuts) in front of the shrine. Devotees can also give Divasa pooja (Daily Pooja) dedicating some Poojas for a day.
Niramala can be done 365 days a year. All the lamps in the chuttuvilakku around the temple can be lighted (by a single person) as an offering. But you may need to wait for at least a few months to get your Niramala done. You can simply book it earlier. In the evenings, it’s a spectacular sight to watch the temple from long distance, standing in the paddy fields, when Niramala is lighted. Uthralikavu appears like a cluster of stars from a distance.
Many artists received the blessing of the goddess
P. N. Menon from Engakaadu and his nephew Bharathan are among those artists who received the blessing of Uthralikavu Bhagavathi. Both are acclaimed filmmakers who have made immense contributions to Malayalam cinema. Near his ancestral home, director Bharathan has built a mandapam in the paddy fields, which is still seen there. It was built in such a way that both Machad Hills in the east and the green paddy fields leading towards Engakadu temple can be seen at the same time from this Mandapam.
Many of Bharathan’s friends frequently visited Vadakkanchery and nearby places. Nedumudi Venu, Innocent, Oduvil Unnikrishnan, Pavithran and Kaithapuram Damodaran Namboothiri were among those. Oduvil Unnikrishnan has composed and released one devotional musical album dedicated to the Goddess of Uthralikavu. Kaithapuram has got inspiration for a few of his songs from this temple and its premises. His popular songs, “Kannethaa Dooram Marutheeram” from Thaazhvaram and “Uthralikavile Pattola Panthalil” from Vidhyarambham are among those.
Other rituals associated with Uthralikavu Pooram
Nirapara tradition is an integral part of the rituals & offerings
Rice, Malar (puffed rice), jaggery and turmeric – Para of Uthralikavu is very famous. Maybe because the temple is surrounded by paddy fields, giving rice as offering (called Aripara) to the Goddess is very significant. Turmeric para is also significant. During the festival seasons, the para offering is done at homes. The procession reaches homes, and the para offerings accepted from there. The families light Kerala lamps and welcome the procession. Komaram also blesses the family members.
The Parayedupp (accepting/taking Para from home) is accompanied by some traditional art forms also, done by some performing artists. Kali, Darikan, Bhuta gana etc are some of the characters presented as art forms by the artists. They accompany the Komaram and his group, and perform after they leave the homes. This ceremony is held from Tuesday to Tuesday. Kavu theendal ceremony is conducted on Pooram star of Kumbham month in Malayalam calendar. Nirapara or simply Para is an offering given by devotees to temples, and in Thrissur district where Uthralikavu belongs to, it’s conducted in a vibrant and elaborated way to celebrate, comparing other districts. If you want to know more about this ritual, click here.
The paddy fields around the temple belong to different people. Centuries have passed, but none of its owners have sold to other people or used it for farming other agricultural products. They didn’t even use the fields for any other purposes, and even now, only paddy is cultivated. Thus temple situated inside the paddy fields has become a cultural landmark over the decades, and the whole premises, along with the greenery, attract everyone. And the credit also goes to those who hold this land and believe it to be their responsibility to keep its beauty intact.
Uthralikavu Pooram – A pooram of different desams
In the Pooram maidan, Poothan, Thira, Aandi, Aandi Kidav and Shankara Nayadi dance in their colourful costumes, with vibrant footsteps. The festival begins with the ceremony of ‘Para Purappadu’, and it is conducted on the Tuesday coming after the first Friday of the Malayalam month Kumbham. It comes during February-March season of the English calendar. Every Pooram is an association of different desams belonging to the same village, and it’s a get-together of old friends and relatives, who visit their ancestral homes during festival season.
Uthralikavu Pooram is conducted by 3 desams (regions) – Engakadu, Kumaranellur and Wadakkanchery. The pooram overflows through these three desams. Each Desam has the right to use 11 elephants for their procession. On the final day of Pooram, there will be 33 elephants belonging to three desams participating in the grand event. They will be roaming in around 10 km total surface area from the temple. Uthralikavu Pooram is counted among the five major Temple festivals of Kerala, and in terms of grandeur, it comes behind Thrissur Pooram – the biggest temple festival of Kerala.
As told before, the major event of the procession of elephants is conducted on the second Tuesday, after the first Friday of Kumbham. On the first Tuesday, temple celebrations kick off. Sample fireworks are conducted on Sunday every year, 2 days before Pooram. On the same day, Altharamelam is also conducted by the coordination of all the three desams. The air will be filled with the music of Panchavadhyam and Pandimelam. On Monday, Aanachamaya Pradarshanam is conducted, where ornaments and accessories of elephants used in Pooram are displayed. On Tuesday, 12 Fireworks are conducted by three desams in a grand way.
Kaliyattam is conducted for one or two days in any one of the desams during the festival season. Young people take Vritham for 7 days to participate in this Theyyam. Collecting accessories like Patta (decorative headgear or ornamental band) & Kuruthola (tender coconut leaves) for Choott is conducted in a grand way. Choott is a bundle of dried coconut and palm leaves that are tied around the waist, arms, or other parts of the performer’s body.
Pandal is another attraction of the Uthralikavu Pooram festival. A multi-storey pandal of great height is built together by three desams. Kerala’s most famous and celebrated elephants are brought here for the Pooram. The display and procession of all elephants together at a place known as Koodiyezhunnallath is conducted on Tuesday evening. When all the caparisoned elephants are displayed together in a place under the setting sun, it’s majestic, grand and beautiful. The same is the case of Panchavadhyam, led by experienced and celebrated artists, which accompanies the elephant display.
The final ceremony of Uthralikavu Pooram is ‘Upacharam Cholli Piriyal’, where the goddesses representing each Desam say goodbye to each other. After that, everyone leaves the place, and Uthralikavu goddess stays there inside the paddy fields. Yes, if you visit this place once, you will definitely wait for another occasion when you can come here again. Now, a film song written by Kaithapram is coming to my mind, and I am ending this article by quoting its first few lines.
“Uthralikkavile Pattolappanthalil
Kulirambili Valayangal Thoranamayi
Manjila Thumbikale Konjiyunarthan
Aniyarayil Pooppada Than Aravamayi”
Also read a brief article about Uthralikavu Pooram in Malayalam.
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